Certification of Fabrics

Certification of Fabrics

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

The GOTS certification is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibres. It is the most complete standard as it covers ecological and social criteria, backed up by independent certification of the entire textile supply chain. It covers all aspects of the production from fibre to fabric and incorporates strict guidelines regarding working conditions, labour laws and environmental factors such as waste management. 

Oeko-tex standard 100 certification

This certification ensures fabrics are free of harmful chemicals and completely safe for human use. To attain Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, the fabric has been tested & free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances known to be harmful to human health. The Oeko-tex certified fibre is commonly used for children’s garments and activewear.

Organic Content Standard (OCS)

Organic Content Standard blended (OCS blended) verifies the presence of organic materials and tracks the flow of raw material from its source to the final product. Focusing on the integrity of the organic material, this certification covers processing, manufacturing and distribution. 

 

Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification

The Forest Stewardship Council®(FSC®) is a global, not-for-profit organization dedicated to the promotion of responsible forest management worldwide. FSC defines standards based on agreed principles for responsible forest stewardship that are supported by environmental, social, and economic stakeholders. To find out more visit:  www.fsc.org
Fabrics such as rayon, viscose, modal, lyocell are all made from cellulose fibres (which come from trees).

European Flax® certification

Linen is produced from the flax plant and is grown all over the world. However, European Linen comes from flax grown in Western Europe; France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Due to the ideal soil and climate conditions, the flax fibre is strong and can reach up to 1 metre tall. European flax linen is known for its premium quality in comparison to flax grown in other continents. The certification also guarantees that it’s grown in an eco-friendly environment with no irrigation, GMO and zero waste.

Livaeco by Birla Cellulose™

Livaeco by Birla Cellulose™ is sourced from FSC® certified sustainable forests. Livaeco fabric is Pro-Planet and helps save water, maintain forest cover, biodegrades fast and reduces CO2 emission.

LENZING™ ECOVERO™

Derived from certified renewable wood sources using an eco-responsible production process by meeting high environmental standards, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers tailor to a sustainable lifestyle, contributing to a cleaner environment.

Global Recycled Standard (GRS)

The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) and Global Recycled Standard (GRS) are international, voluntary standards that set requirements for third-party certification of recycled input and chain of custody. The shared goal of the standards is to increase the use of recycled materials. The GRS includes additional criteria for social and environmental processing requirements and chemical restrictions.

Tanboocel ®

“Tanboocel” bamboo fiber is made from bamboo pulp using patented technology. The environmentally friendly process is completed in a closed loop system, where the chemicals are recycled and reused.
The fiber is biodegradable and offers many benefits such as breathability, thermal regulating, antibacterial and is hypoallergenic.

Knitted or woven – what’s the difference?

Knitted or woven – what’s the difference?

Fabric consists of a network of natural and/or artificial yarns. The most common way fabric is formed is by weaving or knitting.

Knit fabric is produced by a single yarn which is looped and interlocked together. There are two categories – warp knitting where the loops run up and down and weft knitting where the loops run back and forth. While Woven fabric is where threads or yarn are interlaced together. If you look closely at a woven fabric, the threads have a perpendicular crisscross pattern – instead of loops.

Knitted Fabric

Most knit fabric is soft, wrinkle resistant and stretches all over – think of your typical t-shirt material which is commonly made out of cotton or viscose.

Here are some examples of knitted fabric;

Jersey Knit

Originally made from wool, nowadays jersey knit can be made from different fabrics such as cotton &/or synthetic fibres. Typical Jersey fabric is usually made on a knitting machine and has a distinct face and back. The face side is characterized by knitted loops which look like rows of v’s and the back side has flat purl stitch, which looks like small curves or bumps. Jersey knit is soft and flexible and used for many different kinds of garments.

Terry towel / terry cloth

Your typical towelling fabric which is super absorbent. It has loops on one side and piles of yarn on the other. Terry cloth can be made out of cotton but may include polyester, rayon, linen or blends with spandex for added stretch. It’s commonly used for beach wear, towels, and kids wear.

French Terry knit

French terry is a smoother & softer than terry cloth, though both feature a similar soft surface. It’s generally mid weight, great for casual clothing such as hoodies and gym gear.

Rib-knit

Rib knit features long vertical columns, forming tight stretchy rows.

Velour knit

Velour knit has a raised surface or nap which consists of upright loops that are cut to create a soft, plush feel.

Rib cotton 

Wool blends

Cotton Terry Towel

Woven Fabric

Woven fabric will not always stretch lengthwise and widthwise like knitted fabric, some types can be prone to wrinkling if you scrunch it.

There are three types of weaves used to create woven fabric however each type can have many variations.

  • Plain weave (also known as tabby weave) is a simple perpendicular weave that resembles a checkerboard pattern. An example is chiffon and poplin.
  • Twill weave where the weave runs in a ribbed diagonal pattern. An example of twill weave is denim and corduroy.
  • Satin weave is similar to twill however it’s woven in such a way that the light falling on the yarn creates a shiny surface. The smooth, lustrous surface provides ideal drape quality.

Here are some examples of woven fabrics:

Chiffon

This plain weave fabric is super thin and sheer. It can be woven from a variety of textile types such as rayon, silk, polyester & nylon.

Poplin

Poplin fabric is a plain weave fabric with crosswise ribs that typically gives a corded surface. It’s usually lightweight and commonly used for shirts.

Muslin

Muslin is a loosely-woven cotton fabric made using the plain weave technique.

Crêpe

This fabric can be woven from any weave structure (plain, satin, or twill). Crêpe has a rough, irregular texture due to specially twisted or crimped yarns.

Georgette

Georgette is typically a plain weave fabric woven using tightly twisted yarns which create a slightly puckered, crinkled surface.

Sustainable fabrics

Sustainable fabrics

Eco-friendly‘, ‘sustainable’, ‘organic’…it can be a little confusing with these terms being mentioned in the textile industry. Even though they seem similar in meaning, there are some differences. So let’s start with the basics;

  • Eco Friendly: environment friendly, not harmful to the environment
  • Sustainable: the ability to exist constantly
  • Organic: manufactured using organic production systems

Organic and eco-friendly textiles are grown with natural fertilizers such as compost, without any harmful pesticides and chemicals. The entire production and manufacturing process should be environmentally friendly, resulting in an end fabric which is biodegradable.

In order for a fabric to be certified as ‘organic’, strict regulations are ensured throughout the manufacturing process, taking into account factors such as water and energy consumption. Our organic cotton range carry the Global Organic Textile Standard certification (GOTS) which represents the ultimate in ecological and sustainable production.

‘Sustainable’ fabric refers to eco-friendly resources, such as sustainably grown fiber crops or recycled materials. Sustainability encompasses various environmental, social and economic factors while focusing on preserving the environment for future generations. Think reduce, reuse and recycle 🙂

Silky Jaya’s eco-friendly fabrics

Natural fibers

  • Organic Cotton: This plant based fabric is hypoallergenic, breathable, absorbent & biodegradable. Organic cotton uses much less water and energy than conventional cotton.
  • Hemp & organic cotton: Hemp is a sustainable crop which grows easily, is naturally resistant to pests and diseases and doesn’t require chemical processing. This plant based fabric has dense durable fibres which are breathable, antibacterial and biodegradable. Our Hemp Cotton fabric is made with 55% hemp, 45% organically grown cotton according to Organic Content Standard (OCS).
  • Linen: Linen is a sustainable fabric made from flax fibres. It’s easily a favourite when it comes to garments being suitable for every season. Linen is breathable, hypoallergenic, durable and biodegradable. We have a range of 100% linen fabrics and linen blends which carry the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification and European flax standard for premium linen fibres.
  • Ramie: Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers and is from a type of nettle plant. Also known as China grass or Grass linen, ramie fabric breathes well and is naturally resistant to bacteria, molds and mildew. It’s a sustainable fiber source however it still requires chemicals in the manufacturing process.

Regenerated fibres

Man-made fibres can also be Eco-friendly Fibers

Regenerated fibers are natural materials (such as cellulose and wood pulp) that have been processed into a fiber structure. Bamboo, Rayon, Viscose, Lyocell, Tencel, Modal and Cupro are fabrics all part of the same family.

  • Bamboo: considered a sustainable fabric (similar to hemp), it’s fast growing and naturally resistant to pests and diseases. We could say it is ‘semi eco friendly’ as it does require chemicals to turn it into fabric. Bamboo based fabric is super soft, breathable, absorbent and wrinkle resistant. It’s thermal regulating and hypoallergenic.
  • Livaeco Viscose: This fabric is 100% sustainable and biodegradable and sourced from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) sustainable forests. FSC certifies forests all over the world to ensure they meet the highest environmental and social standards. This Rayon fabric is produced in a closed loop system (similar to Cupro and Tencel) where the chemicals and water used in production can be extracted and recycled.
  • Lyocell: is a form of rayon which is manufactured from wood pulp, usually eucalyptus trees. This fabric is sustainable, absorbent, breathable, wrinkle resistant, durable, super soft silky texture and biodegradable. Lyocell is also known as Tencel however Tencel ™ is actually a brand name owned by Austrian company Lenzing AG for an improved fabric from lyocell fibre.
  • Cupro: also known as vegan silk. It’s smooth, hypoallergenic, thermo regulating, durable and biodegradable. Curpo is produced in a closed loop system (like eco rayon and Tencel) where the chemicals and water used in production can be extracted and recycled.
All about silk

All about silk

Silk is a natural fiber which is extracted from the cocoons of silkworms. Amazingly, one continuous thread from a single cocoon can measure up to 900 meters! It’s also incredibly strong – one of the strongest natural fibers in the world.

Silk production, known as sericulture is a quite labor intensive process which dates back thousands of years. Silk was first produced in China around the 27 century BC with cultivation eventually spreading to Japan and India. Nowadays China is still the largest producer of silk with India in second place.

Known as ‘the queen of textiles’ traditionally silk was used exclusively for high end society and today still holds its reputation for being an elegant, luxurious fabric.

Silk has a natural sheen and luster due to the structure of the silk fibers. This shape of the silk fiber refracts the light at different angles, which gives it a shimmering appearance. The shine of the fabric also depends on the weave and production. There are several different weaves that are used, each giving the silk a distinct look.

Here are some examples of popular silk weaves:

  • Silk Satin (also known as charmeuse) is sleek, glossy and glamorous. It has a glossy face with a matte back.
  • Silk Crepe is lightweight with a crisp texture and granular surface.
  • Silk Chiffon is sheer with a soft feel and matte crepe texture.
  • Georgette is made with a high twist resulting in a dry, grainy surface feel.
  • Habutai is a basic plain weave traditionally woven in Japan (hence the name) however nowadays woven in China. Lightweight and commonly used as a lining.
  • Crinkle has a subtle crinkled pleated appearance, it’s great for layering.

Silk fabric is measured by momme weight (mm). The bigger the number the heavier the silk weight, meaning more silk has been used in the weaving process. A very sheer silk chiffon may be 6mm while a silk satin might be 16mm.

Silk is graded A, B or C with A being the best. Grade A silk is high quality and comes from pearly white cocoons. At Silky Jaya we supply grade A silk and guarantee the best quality. 

Be careful if you are purchasing from a different supplier as there are plenty of synthetic imitations out there! Remember silk is a relatively expensive fabric (due to the production process), so if you are getting it at a super cheap price, there is a possibility it is fake.

Why we love silk

Silk is durable, lightweight, breathable and hypoallergenic. It drapes beautifully and dyes easily, no wonder it’s such a favourite in the fashion industry. Being a natural fibre it is biodegradable and requires less water in production compared with cotton. It’s also thermo regulating, a stylish blouse or dress will keep you cool in hot climates while also providing insulation in colder climates if worn close to the skin.

How to care for Silk garments

We recommend hand washing in cool water. Some silks can be put on delicate cycle in the washing machine or you could have it dry cleaned. Dry your fabric flat, out of direct sunlight. You can steam it or iron it on a cool setting.

 

In addition to our 100% silk fabrics, we have a variety of different blends such as silk velvet, silk linen & silk cotton.